Textile Waste: A Growing Challenge and an Opportunity for Growth and Sustainability

The apparel industry significantly contributes to global carbon emissions, with approximately 75% of textiles ending up in landfills. One of the main problems with managing textile waste is that different countries do not have uniform reporting and classification systems. By looking at the successes of e-waste regulations, which have enhanced recycling rates through extended producer responsibility, the textile sector can support a circular economy.

The Impact of Textile Waste

The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions—more than those from international flights and marine shipping combined. In 2020, the European Union (EU) saw an average consumption of 14.8 kg of textiles per person, yet only 1% was recycled into new fibers. Much of the textile waste is exported to Africa as second-hand clothing, with 40% ultimately ending up in landfills or the ocean, leading to serious environmental consequences.

The Recycling Dilemma

While mechanical and chemical recycling methods are advancing, the textile industry remains commercially unviable without government backing. Moreover, 60% to 70% of clothing is made from plastic-based materials like polyester, linking the industry to fossil fuels and complicating recycling efforts while increasing microplastic pollution.

The Need for Harmonization and Transparency

Immediate actions can be taken to address the challenges of sorting secondhand clothing from textile waste. There is a lack of harmonization in data collection, classification, and reporting among countries. For instance, different countries categorize textiles differently based on their quality and intended use.

In the EU, used textiles are often exported to Africa, aiming for local reuse, but many items end up in landfills. The EU’s requirement for separate textile waste collection by 2025 will likely increase the volume of collected used textiles, making collaboration between commercial entities and governments vital for a circular economy.

Learning from E-Waste Regulations

The Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment (WEEE) Directive, introduced in 2012, has successfully regulated e-waste in Europe. Establishing an extended producer responsibility principle has significantly improved recycling rates. Similar strategies can be applied to the textile sector to enhance recycling and waste management.

Trade Facilitation and the Circular Economy

Effective trade facilitation is essential for managing reverse supply chains, allowing for the return of used goods for recycling. The Global Alliance for Trade Facilitation is exploring methods to simplify this process, particularly for used electronics.

Recommendations for the Textile Industry

To transition towards a circular economy, several measures should be implemented:

• Standardized Data Collection: Governments should establish unified systems for tracking textile waste, utilizing digital tools for traceability.

• Improved Sorting Processes: Enhancing sorting capabilities at collection points can help reduce waste exports.

• Investment in Recycling Infrastructure: Develop infrastructure to convert more textiles into new products.

• Harmonization of Classification Systems: Create a common framework for defining and categorizing textile waste.

• Extended Producer Responsibility Schemes: Encourage sustainable design practices and invest in recycling initiatives.

Textile waste poses a significant and growing challenge, yet addressing it presents economic and environmental benefits. By improving trade facilitation, transparency, and harmonizing regulations, the apparel industry and governments can turn this challenge into an opportunity for sustainable growth.